Landlocked between Georgia, Iran and the closed borders of its enemies Turkey and Azerbaijan, Armenia is the smallest republic in the South Caucasus, and the least visited of them all (unless you are Armenian!)
But Armenia is also the cultural homeland of a diaspora present all over the world and that is five times larger than the population of the country. Think about people you know whose surname ends in “-ian” or “-yan” – they are Armenian.
The Caucasus is a land of unique languages, and Armenia couldn’t be less! The Armenian language forms its own isolated branch of Indoeuropean languages, but it really doesn’t sound so much like any other. It is written using the Armenian alphabet, invented by Mesrop Mashtots around 405 AD with 36 letters.
We had the chance of visiting Armenia with a Syrian Armenian friend. When the war in Syria started, many Armenians who lived in Syria (mostly in Aleppo) fled the country and moved to Yerevan, the capital of the Republic of Armenia.
Armenia is a really interesting destination, but getting to know it with an Armenian, sharing beers or glasses of Ararat brandy and delicious local food with Armenians in the evenings, made it even more unique, giving us an interesting insight about the complex situation of the region and their future perspectives.
A little bit of history
Located on a strategic location in the South Caucasus, between Persia, Russia and Anatolia, Armenia has been a cross-roads of cultures since Antiquity: ruled by Ancient Persia and Armenian kings under their influence, by Greeks, Parthians…
Then it became the frontier of the Roman Empire and later part of Byzantium.
King Tiridates III of Armenia, under protection of the Romans, turned Armenia into the first officially Christian state in history in 301.
The Armenian Apostolic Church was established then, making it the oldest Christian institution. Christianism began to replace Zoroastrism and has been embedded in Armenian national identity for centuries.
Throughout the Middle Ages, the Arabs, Seljuks, Ottomans and Mongols also invaded Armenia, causing great religious tensions.
In the modern era, Persia and Russia have fought over their control of Armenia. Russia ultimately won the upper hand and Armenia became part of the USSR in 1922 – first as part of the Transcaucasian Republic, which was then split into Armenia, Azerbaijan and Georgia in 1936. Armenia was turned into the industrial powerhouse of the Caucasus.
Armenians under the Ottoman Empire were driven out of their homes in 1915 and the following years in what is known as the Armenian Genocide. Many Armenians were killed and others fled to Syria, where they started a new life. They formed a sizeable community in Aleppo.
After the collapse of the Soviet Union, Armenia has had very troubled times, shaped by the ethnic conflict with Azerbaijan over Nagorno-Karabakh (that started even before the end of the USSR) and the ongoing enmity with Turkey.
As a result, borders with Turkey and Azerbaijan have been closed for decades, and infrastructures like the Trans-Caucausian pipeline deliberately avoid Armenia, even if that makes them longer and more costly.
Since 1994 Nagorno-Karabakh has been controlled by Armenians, working as an unrecognised independent state, but in many ways it was like de facto part of Armenia. You can travel there from Armenia easily, paying a visa at the border. It’s just not so recommendable in the current situation after the 2020 war.
What's Eastern Armenia and Western Armenia?
Armenians generally consider their original nation to be much larger than the Republic of Armenia, and divided into two main parts: “Eastern Armenia” and “Western Armenia”.
Eastern Armenia is roughly the present-day Republic of Armenia (and was ruled by Persia and Russia), while Western Armenia is made up of lands were Armenians lived for centuries and were mostly ruled by the Ottoman Empire and now part of modern Turkey. This is where Mount Ararat, national symbol of Armenians, is located.
Even if they consider themselves part of the same nation, there are some cultural differences between Eastern and Western Armenians: cuisine, second language (Russian or Arabic)… and Western Armenians tend to be louder. They also speak different dialects, but if you don’t speak Armenian, this is much more difficult to realise.
Getting there
Due to the conflicts with Turkey and Azerbaiyan, flying to Armenia is more difficult than travelling to Georgia or Azerbaijan. Most connections to Yerevan are through Moscow or other Russian airports.
As we visited Armenia and Georgia on the same trip, we flew to Tbilisi and got a marshrutka (minibus) to Yerevan. It is quite cheap, although the road is quite bumpy (it takes the more direct but worse road though Lori region) and will take you to the centre of Yerevan in 6 hours.
Moving around
The best way to travel around Armenia is by renting a car, although there are also buses and marshrutky (minibuses) that take you to all the important sites. There are also trains, especially towards the North, but they are generally slower. Our Armenian friend had a trusted driver that we hired for our trips outside of Yerevan.
As Armenia is quite small, you can use Yerevan as your base and visit most important sites in the country in one-day trips, as we did. Actually, some of the best places are close to Yerevan and easy to reach even if you don’t have a car.
In Yerevan, there is a good public transport system, including 1 metro line, and taxis are quite cheap. Anyway, the city centre is very walkable and the only places of interest which are not within a walking distance are the Mother Armenia monument, the Armenian Genocide Memorial and Erebuni fortress.
Armenian cuisine
Armenian cuisine is the result of the cooking intermingling of the peoples of the South Caucasus and other lands the Armenians have inhabited throughout history.
Most ingredients used in the Armenian kitchen are fresh local produce, grown with unintensive methods. Apricots, figs and pomegranates are very common and of great quality.
Many Armenian dishes are clearly Eastern Mediterranean. If you’ve been to the Balkans, many Armenian staples will sound familiar to you: tolma (stuffed vine leaves), jajik (tzatziki), borak, sarma (stuffed cabbage), sujukh (spicy cured sausage)… Others are Central Asian, like manti (minced meat dumplings).
And then, there are two distinct cuisines – as you may imagine: Eastern and Western.
Eastern Armenian cuisine has a larger Georgian and Russian influence. Also, some Georgian classics like khachapuri are available in most Armenian restaurants.
The star of Eastern Armenian cuisine is Armenian barbecue (khoravats). Ghapama is the most common Christmas dish (pumpkin stuffed with rice and dried fruits like almonds, apricots, dates and raisins). It also has great stews as well as mezze and vegetable dishes.
Western Armenian cuisine is heavily influenced by the Levant (Syria, Lebanon). You can expect mezze staples like hummus, mutabbal (“aubergine hummus”), falafel, kyufta (meatballs with delicious herbs) or samsak (fried minced meat open dumplings).
You can enjoy both Eastern and Western Armenian cuisine in Yerevan. Click here to see our recommendations of restaurants in central Yerevan – all from locals!
What to read in the plane
If you want to get an insight into the cultural hotchpotch of the Caucasus, learn about its recent history and why things are they way they are nowadays, you can read The Ghost of Freedom, by Charles King.
Days 1-2: Yerevan
Yerevan, the capital of Armenia, has a long history as a multicultural city in the Caucasus, ruled by ancient and mediaeval Armenian kings, but also by all powers that have disputed the region over the centuries – especially Persia and Russia, who have both left their footprint in the city’s architecture and culture.
Yerevan was founded in 782 BC, according to a cuneiform inscription, making it the oldest city to have documented the exact day of its foundation.
However, little of that remains and Yerevan nowadays feels like a new city in an old country. This is due to the radical redevelopment of the city in the 1920s, when Armenia was incorporated to the USSR.
The population of the city grew very quickly due to economic development and to Armenians settling there after they were expelled from Ottoman lands in 1915. Thus, the urban development of some neighbourhoods was more chaotic.
The plan, designed by Alexander Tamanyan, is the most remarkable Soviet rationalist city development in the Caucasus. It follows a grid enclosed in a circular boulevard with monumental avenues and squares, in which the view of Mount Ararat from its main streets plays a fundamental role.
Tamanyan also envisaged a rational division of administrative, commercial and scientific districts and paid a lot of attention in providing green areas to Yerevan’s citizens.
This meant that many old streets, churches, mosques, baths, bazaars and other buildings where demolished to make way for this new Yerevan, that quickly developed into a modern industrial metropolis.
From Republic Square to Yerevan Opera
We started our visit in Republic Square (Hanrapetutyan Hraparak) – formerly Lenin Square.
This is the main square of Yerevan – a monumental ensemble that blends Stalinist and Armenian architecture and hosts some of the main institutions of the country. The seat of the Government of the Republic of Armenia, the Modern Art Museum and the Marriott Hotel are located on three sides of its elliptical shape.
The main building of the square, behind a massive fountain, hosts the National Gallery of Armenia, the History Museum of Armenia and the Arts and Literature Museum. In summer nights, from 9:30 to 11 pm, the fountain “dances” to music with colourful water effects – be sure not to miss it!
One side of Republic Square opens to Shahumyan Park, a boulevard with rectangular fountains in the centre lined with lively cafés. This is followed by the newly built Yerevan 2800th Anniversary Park, with fountains shaped as a traditional Armenian carpet. This monumental axis ends in Myasnikyan Square.
Let’s go back to Republic Square. On either side of the Dancing Fountain start two main streets of Yerevan’s central grid: Abovyan and Nalbandyan streets.
It’s worth wandering around them as you will find an interesting architecture and monumental squares, but you shouldn’t miss Northern Avenue (Hyusisayin Poghota).
Take Nothern Avenue from Abovyan St. This pedestrian avenue forms a diagonal to the city grid that goes through the centre of the circle.
It is the main commercial street of Yerevan, lined with shops of international brands that will make you forget you are in the South Caucasus.
Yerevan Opera
Northern Avenue takes you to one of the most important places in Yerevan’s centre: Yerevan Opera Theatre.
Yerevan’s Opera was one of the highlights of Tamanyan’s project. Construction started in 1930 following a design by Tamanyan himself, and continued until the 1950s.
Go around the Opera to see the a statue of famous Armenian composer and conductor Aram Khachaturian, who performed several times in it. The Opera Theatre officially bears his name.
Cascade
Walk behind of the Opera Theatre to arrive in the Northern tip of Yerevan’s central grid and its circular limits (Moskovyan Street).
On the other side of Moskovyan Street, you will first find a monument to Alexander Tamanyan looking at his urban plan for Yerevan. Behind him stands the icing on the cake of Tamanyan’s Yerevan – the Cascade.
The Cascade is a massive set of stone steps with fountains inspired by Armenian carpet design and flowers. It was initially built to commemorate the 50th anniversary of Soviet Armenia, but construction was stopped in 1991, as funds dried up after the collapse of the USSR.
As happened with many other projects in Armenia, funding of a diaspora philanthropist has allowed construction to resume. Go up the stairs and enjoy the different works of art and exhibition rooms after each flight.
On the top of the Cascade you can enjoy a lovely view of Yerevan’s city centre and Mount Ararat, if the day is clear. Even further uphill stands the monument to the 50th anniversary of Soviet Armenia.
Matenadaran
Close to the Cascade, at the top of Mesrop Mashtots Avenue stands the massive Matenadaran, library of Armenia’s ancient manuscripts.
In front of it, a monument to Mesrop Mashtots, an Armenian monk who is credited for the invention of the Armenian alphabet around 405 AD.
The most important library in Armenia used to be in Echmiadzin. After countless manuscripts and books were destroyed during the 1915 genocide, Armenians started to think of the important of preserving their ancient texts.
Yerevan’s Matenadaran was built in 1959 as the best way to preserve this heritage. A kind of secular cathedral of the Armenian national culture and language, its collection contains over 14 000 manuscripts in Armenian and 3000 ancient books, making one of the largest in the world.
The museum contains also several ancient Greek, Roman, Persian and Arabic philosophical works and other manuscripts. The collection is thus of great value and a must for book lovers.
Tickets cost 1000 drams (around 1.60 €). You can also book a private guide to explain you the significance of the manuscripts and books on display.
Katoghike Church
Even if most of old Yerevan was erased with the new grid plan, a couple of old churches still survive in the city centre.
Close to the Opera lies Katoghike, the oldest existing building in Yerevan city centre. This small chapel was built in 1264. It was the only structure left of a larger building destroyed in an earthquake in 1679. Then, a new church was built and hid Katoghike within its structure.
When the Soviet authorities demolished this newer church in 1936, tiny Katoghike was rediscovered and they finally decided to preserve it. Nowadays it provides a beautiful contrast in cosmopolitan Yerevan.
Zoravor Church
Zoravor Church was a very important sanctuary in Yerevan as it was built on the tomb of an apostle. It is considered the oldest church surviving in Yerevan, but the current building dates from the 17th century on top of the ruins of the old monastery damaged by the 1679 earthquake.
Blue mosque
Yerevan is now a completely Armenian and Christian city, but the Blue Mosque reminds us of its past as a cosmopolitan city ruled by Persia.
This 18th century Mosque has a beautiful turquoise dome and minaret and a garden. You can enter freely into the prayer room.
There are virtually no Muslims in Yerevan, but the Blue Mosque helps Armenia to have good relationships with Iran, which restored the Mosque in the 1990s.
Armenian Genocide Memorial (Tsitsernakaberd)
On a hill on the West of Yerevan, across the Hrazdan river gorge, stands this memorial and museum of great significance for Armenians. The easiest way to arrive is by car (or taking a taxi, as they are very cheap). There are also minibuses that take you nearby.
In 1915 and the following years, Armenians under the Ottoman Empire (along with other minorities) were driven out in what we would call today a massive ethnic cleansing campaign. Armenians estimate 1.5 million people were killed during that time, while many others lost their homes forever and had to start a new life in Syria.
This is known as the Armenian Genocide (although the word genocide was coined in the 1940s). Armenia campaigns actively for official recognition of the genocide in more and more states, while Turkey and Azerbaijan radically refuse to call it such and pressure other states not to recognise it.
32 states have so far recognised the Armenian Genocide, as well as several subnational entities and institutions. The issue is still very charged, as you can see in the poster below.
The Memorial was built in 1967, two years after the Armenian population demanded the Soviet authorities to recognise the genocide. The Memorial has 3 main parts and it is full of symbols, and people have made up even more symbols that were not devised originally by the architect.
As you walk towards the central section of the Memorial, you will first see a row of trees planted by foreign leaders who have recognised the Genocide.
Then, the path becomes broader: on your left, you will see the “Wall of Memory” on your left. This wall, 100 m long, has engraved names of places where Armenians were massacred.
On your right, a great panoramic view of Mount Ararat.
The main area leading to the central plateau mimics a huge tombstone for the Armenians who died in the Syrian desert after being driven out by the Ottoman authorities.
In the middle of this plateau, there are 12 tilted basalt slabs arranged in a circle that keep an eternal flame within, in remembrance of the victims. The diameter of this circle is of 15 metres, a reference to year 1915. Other claimed symbolism of the eternal flame were not actually intended.
Next to the circle, there is a 40 m spire cut in two, like part of a tree trying to reach the Sun. This symbolises the rebirth of the Armenian people.
Ararat brandy distillery
Armenia has brandies of a fantastic quality and Ararat is its most famous brand. It is exported and renowned worldwide, especially in Russia.
One of Ararat’s brandies was the favourite of Winston Churchill. Apparently, he discovered it during the Conference of Yalta and thereafter Stalin sent him some bottles as a present every year.
Ararat is produced by the Yerevan Brandy Company. Its distillery is located on the left bank of river Hrazdan, across the national stadium, on the road that goes up the Genocide Memorial.
We went there for a distillery tour and tasting. They offered us a two possibilities: a cheaper tasting of their younger brandies or a “premium” tasting. We took the premium – it was definitely worth it, and the way to taste Churchill’s favourite.
First, we did the distillery tour and learnt about how brandy is distilled and aged. But the most surprising thing in the distillery has more to do with Armenia’s complicated politics: they have saved a barrel of brandy to open it when the Nagorno-Karabakh conflict is finished.
The barrel sits in between the flags of Armenia, Azerbaijan and the Artsakh Republic (the Armenian self-proclaimed state in Nagorno-Karabakh) – this is most probably the only place in Armenia where you can see a flag of Azerbaijan.
After the tour, we tasted 3 Ararat brandies: Ani (6 years old), Akhtamar (10 years old) and Nairi (20 years old). Nairi is Churchill’s favourite, and we could really understand why. A bottle costs around 60 €.
Akhtamar was really good too, and great value for around 30 € for a bottle. We also bought exclusive Hayastan/Armenia brandy, which can only be found in the country.
Day 3: Geghard - Garni
Always using Yerevan as our base, we spent the next days visiting some astonishing places around Armenia. In the evening, we enjoyed Yerevan’s bustling atmosphere. If you want to know our local recommendations for bars and restaurants, jump to sections Where to eat in Yerevan and Going out in Yerevan.
Geghard Monastery
Our first trip outside of Yerevan was to Geghard Monastery, probably the most unique mediaeval building in Armenia and UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2000.
Geghard is a mediaeval monastery, part of which is carved in the rock! It was established in the 4th c. and developed subsequently until the 13th c., when the main chapel and the incredible underground narthex (gavit) were built.
Geghard is in an area of great natural beauty, quite close to Yerevan. When you arrive, you will see a Byzantine-style church close to a rock with intricate carvings on doors, windows and some khachkars (Armenian cross-stones).
The outside part of the temple is very beautiful on its own… But what will leave you without words are the underground chambers of the monastery.
These are much more elaborate than those you can see in other rock-carved monasteries (like Vardzia, in Georgia) – its columns, domes and vaults are as fine as if they were built above the ground.
Garni
The Temple of Garni is the only standing Roman temple in the former Soviet Union – the periphery of the Roman Empire – and one of the best preserved in the world!
The temple was built sometime in the 1st century AD and (unlike most pagan temples) survived mostly unscathed throughout the Middle Ages. This was in great part thanks to Khosrovidukht, the sister of Tiridates III (the king who made Armenia the first Christian state), who made of Garni temple a royal summer residence.
It collapsed because of an earthquake in 1679. The good news is that most of the original pieces remained on the site, ready for someone to reconstruct the temple.
Finally, in the 1960s, the Soviet Armenian government started rebuilding the temple, and finished in 1975. Up to 80% of the original blocks could be recovered and used for reconstruction.
The temple was completed with replicas of the lost blocks, whose colour can be distinguished.
How to arrive in Geghard and Garni
Geghard is around 40 km East of Yerevan. Take road H3 after exiting the capital city. This road ends at the monastery, signalling is good so you shouldn’t have any problem.
Garni is on the same H3 road 10 km before arriving to Geghard from Yerevan. The famous temple is just outside of the village.
Day 4: Khor Virap – Echmiadzin – Zvartnots
This is another impressive day trip around Yerevan, covering some of the most iconic sights of Armenia. If you don’t have much time in Armenia, you should at least do this trip and that of the previous day (Geghard & Garni).
We started in Khor Virap Monastery. It is located just a few kilometres away from river Araks, that defines the border with Turkey – a border which has been closed for decades due to huge political tensions.
Khor Virap (meaning “deep dungeon”) it is one of the main religious pilgrimage sites in Armenia – it is believed that Gregory the Illuminator (who spread Christianity in Armenia to the point of making it the first officially Christian state in 301) was imprisoned in a “deep dungeon” here, which is still there and open to visitors.
A primitive chapel was built in the 7th century. The present monastery was built in the 17th c. with a wall that encloses the ruins of this old chapel.
Khor Virap is also very important for another reason – it’s nearly the closest point to Mount Ararat in the Republic of Armenia, their national symbol in Turkish land.
National questions aside, the view of Khor Virap with Mount Ararat on its background is simply breathtaking, making it one of the most famous sights of Armenia.
How to arrive in Khor Virap
Khor Virap is 45 km South of Yerevan. You can arrive in around 40 mins with the M2 motorway (E117). There is a car park next to the monastery.
You can also arrive quickly by marshrutka from Yerevan.
Echmiadzin (Vagharshapat)
Echmiadzin (officially Vagharshapat) was the capital of the old Kingdom of Armenia between 120 and 330 AD, just when Christianity was adopted.
This is why Echmiadzin Cathedral is the Holy See of the Armenian Apostolic Church, one of the oldest Christian institutions. Some regard Echmiadzin’s as the oldest cathedral in the world!
The Cathedral and Churches of Echmiadzin, along with Zvartnots nearby, are a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2000.
Echmiadzin Cathedral is in a complex of squares lined with trees and flowers close to the city centre, which includes the residence of the Armenian Catholicos (pontiff) and other churches and religious buildings.
The current building dates from the 480s! Following centuries of wars and neglect, its condition worsened, but it was later repaired and renovated. The decoration, bell towers and other structures were added later, up to the 18th century, but the core is still there.
It’s a pity that when we visited Echamiadzin Cathedral, it was being restored so we couldn’t enjoy it as much!
Zvartnots Cathedral
Zvartnots Cathedral was built in the mid-7th century and was considered one of the most beautiful churches of its time.
It follows a shape called a tetraconch, which consists in four equal apses joined to form a Greek cross. In the centre of the Cathedral, there was a large pool to baptise adults.
Its symmetrical shape and finely carved chapiters and round arches evoke a sense of perfection, where you can see both a Greco-Roman heritage and an influence from the Levant.
Zvartnots collapsed at some point during the 10th century: probably due to an earthquake, or maybe because of Arab raids. You can see some carved fragments of the Cathedral scattered around the side and in its museum nearby.
But even in ruins, Zvartnots is one of the most magnificent buildings in the Caucasus.
How to arrive in Echmiadzin and Zvartnots
Echamiadzin is just 20 km West of Yerevan. Both cities are linked by the M5 motorway (as well as the international airport, which is roughly in between). There are frequent marshrutky between Yerevan and Echmiadzin, that take around 30 minutes.
Zvarntnots Cathedral is located just 5 km East of Echmiadzin city centre.
Day 5: Noravank – Tatev – Jermuk
In this beautiful full day trip to the South of Armenia, in which mediaeval heritage is wonderfully blended with changing landscapes, from rocky desert to mountainous forests. You can make it in one day from Yerevan, as we did, but make sure to take off early!
Noravank
Our first stop was Noravank (which means “New Monastery”). This 13th century monastery is a masterpiece of Armenian mediaeval architecture, and its setting on a rocky gorge makes it even more impressive!
Noravank consists of 2 churches: Surb Astvatsatsin (Holy Mother of God) is the largest and most interesting. It has two floors and access to the top part is by an outside cantilever staircase that serves as decoration to its façade. Behind it, stands Surb Karapet.
Enter the churches to see its carved walls, with intricate khachkars (Armenian crosses) all over the place as well as inscriptions in Armenian and geometric designs.
How to arrive in Noravank
Noravank is 120 km from Yerevan and 85 km from Khor Virap.
Take motorway M2 and exit to road H10 just after Khor Virap. There, the landscape starts to change and the road becomes more winding and slower but much more enjoyable. Then, just past the village of Areni, take the road to Noravank on the right and continue for 7.5 km.
Tatev
Follow the main road South for another 150 km to arrive in Tatev. The road first follows the Arpa river in a rocky landscape, but after the Vorotan Pass the landscape changes dramatically: Syunik, the Southernmost province of the Republic of Armenia, is much greener, but still very mountainous.
The Monastery of Tatev is in a breathtaking location, standing on a rocky plateau overlooking the Vorotan Canyon.
The best way to start enjoying Tatev is to arrive in the Monastery with the modern cable car “Wings of Tatev” from the nearby village of Halidzor.
More than 5 km long, this is the longest non-stop double track cable car in the world! A return ticket costs 5000 drams (around 8 €). The ride over a scenic winding road that crosses the Vorotan river gorge is definitely worth it, even if it’s a bit expensive for Armenian standards.
Tatev Monastery was founded in the 9th century. It played a prominent role in Armenian culture, keeping manuscripts and it even opened a university in 1390. In the 17th century, fortification walls were built, which include a dining hall, a library and even a church (Surb Astvatsatsin or Holy Mother of God).
The main church of the Monastery, Saints Paul and Peter, was built around year 900, making it the oldest building in Tatev. It is also the most beautiful, with a typical Armenian dome and geometrical carvings, as well as khachkars. Its walls were decorated with frescoes, but only a few traces of them remain.
Adjacent to it, there is a smaller church, St. Gregory the Illuminator, originally built in the 11th century but reconstructed in 1295.
Close to the monastery’s enclosure, there is a column topped with a khachkar. It is actually called the “pendulous column” (Gavazan) as it is designed in a way that it moves with slight earth tremors to alert Tatev’s dwellers of an earthquake or an enemy approaching them.
At this point, we thought about going to Nagorno-Karabakh (spending a night there) but in the end decided to go back to Yerevan, stopping before in Jermuk. Once you get back to the main road, it’s just 65 km to Nagorno-Karabakh through Goris. In retrospective, it would’ve been a great idea, especially seeing how the situation has evolved there.
Jermuk
On our way back to Yerevan, we took a small detour to get to Jermuk, a spa town at 2080 metres above sea level, just 25 km North of the main road.
Jermuk was a very popular summer spa destination in the Soviet Union, thanks to its mineral-water treatments and hot springs. The area has beautiful nature so it is great for hiking and there is also a ski resort nearby.
We didn’t go to the spa but enjoyed the picturesque Jermuk waterfall, drank some mineral water and we finally ate lunch: Armenian barbecue by river Arpa.
From Jermuk, we had 170 km back to Yerevan. It got quite late, but the day was definitely worth it! And when it got dark and we had to stop to refuel we enjoyed an incredible sky full of stars!
Day 6: Lake Sevan - Goshavank
With a length of 74 km, Lake Sevan is the largest lake in the Caucasus. It is an alpine lake at an altitude of 1900 metres above sea level.
Sevan provides the only beaches in Armenia and it is also the most important source of fresh fish in the country. 28 rivers flow into Lake Sevan and it feeds river Hrazdan, which flows past Yerevan.
During the Soviet industrialisation of Armenia, Lake Sevan was overexploited, especially for hydropower, reducing its size and altering its ecosystem. Since then, it has been partially recovered.
The most important site in the lake is Sevanavank (Sevan Monastery), which was built in an island that is now a Peninsula.
The Monastery consists of 2 churches, built in 874 and restored in the 1950s: Surp Arakelots (Holy Apostles) and Surp Astvatsatsin (Holy Mother of God). Sevanavank had a very strict rule as its dwellers were exclusively monks from Echmiadzin who had sinned.
Sevanavank is not the most beautiful monastery in Armenia, but its location on a promontory by the lake is very picturesque, and quite different to the nature around most Armenian monasteries
The summer residence of the President of Armenia is also located in the Peninsula that was formed after the lake drainage, not far from Sevanavank.
How to arrive in Sevan
Sevanavank is 66 km from Yerevan city centre through the M4 motorway and a few km from the main town of Sevan.
It has good transport links by marshrutka. During summer, a train runs from Yerevan to Sevan (2 hours).
Goshavank
Then, we drove North of the lake to Dilijan, an alpine town in a Natural Park of the same name dubbed “Switzerland of Armenia”.
We continued the road to Goshavank, the Monastery of the small mountain village of Gosh.
Goshavank was established in 1188 and was one of the main cultural centres of Armenia, thanks to its library and school until it was abandoned at the end of the 14th century. It was later occupied again and finally restored in the 1950s.
Goshavank is one of the few iconic Armenian Monasteries to be in a village, and not alone in nature. Also, all its buildings – including churches, the library and bell tower, the school and gallery – are adjacent to each other. The best of Goshavank’s decoration are its inscriptions and carvings, including one of the best khachkars in Armenia.
Goshavank is 50 km from Sevan and 22 km from Dilijan town.
Between Dilijan and Goshavank, you can also take a the H50 road on the left to visit the beautiful Haghartsin Monastery Complex, which we missed during this trip.
And every evening... Enjoying Yerevan!
One of the advantages of using Yerevan as your base is that you can enjoy its restaurants, bars and bustling atmosphere in the evening after a long day discovering the country!
If you enjoy good food, a bustling urban atmosphere and nightlife, Yerevan is definitely the place to be in Armenia. As it’s not a very touristic city, most places are for locals – yet.
Here are our recommendations to enjoy Yerevan!
Where to eat in Yerevan
Yerevan has a wide variety of Armenian cuisine, and there are distinct Eastern and Western Armenian restaurants – both sophisticated and delicious fast food stalls. During the Syrian War, some Armenians from Aleppo left for Yerevan and opened restaurants serving their cuisine – it’s delicious!
Eastern Armenian restaurants
Lavash is one of the favourite Eastern Armenian restaurants among locals. They bake their own bread, including traditional Armenian lavash bread. Great and fresh produce turned into fantastic Armenian and Caucasus dishes.
In Sherep you can find one of the finest grilled meat in Yerevan, Armenian style with gourmet cuts. They also serve Armenian and Georgian staples (like khachapuri or khinkali).
Western Armenian restaurants
Because our hosts were Western Armenians, we tried more of their food when in Yerevan. And honestly, it was a great idea because we liked Western even more than Eastern.
Our favourite place was Zeituna, next to the Cascade. Definitely the best food we tried in Yerevan! They serve fantastic Syrian Armenian mezze. All is delicious, very varied and at good prices.
Derian is another fantastic Western Armenian restaurant in Yerevan city centre. Great authentic food for locals.
Restaurants with live folk music and dance shows
When in Yerevan, you should certainly go once to a restaurant with traditional folk live music. The food will not be as good as in the places above, but they are great fun!
We celebrated Marcos’ birthday in Mer Gyugh (Our Village) with Armenian music and dances over some Armenian barbecue (khoravats) and wine! It’s even cooler if you can go with locals who really feel the music… Old Erivan is another classic of the same style.
Fast food
If you fancy a shawarma or the likes, Abu Hagop is the place to go! Easy, fast, cheap and delicious.
Going out in Yerevan
Yerevan’s boulevards are fantastic to enjoy your beer, wine or Armenian brandy on a terrace in summer.
Our favourite wine bar was In Vino in Saryan Street (the NW section of Yerevan’s circular boulevard). It is also a wine shop, and the bar has the a really great selection, with over 20 wines by the glass that change every day from Armenia and around the world. They also serve mezze from their restaurant Tapastan next door.
Very close to In Vino, Voskevaz serves the wines of Voskevaz winery, in the village of the same name North-West of Yerevan! They also have good food to go with the wine.
Check out Mirzoyan library a nice open space concept including a café where they organise several events, including dance shows.
Yerevan has a taste for live music, and not only folk. There are great jazz clubs in the city centre. Our local recommendations are: Malkhas Jazz Club, Club 12 and Ulikhanyan.
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