In this post, we will take you around the Gothic Quarter (Barri Gòtic) and El Born, the most monumental neighbourhoods of the old city of Barcelona. But we will also learn that a lot of its architecture (and even the name of gothic quarter) is much newer than many people think.
Until the 19th c. the city limits of Barcelona were basically what we know today as Ciutat Vella. South to North: El Raval, Gothic Quarter, El Born and the Citadel; and, in a Peninsula entering the Mediterranean, Barceloneta.
The oldest buildings of Barcelona are in this area – its emblematic gothic style (partly original and partly built in the last 150 years), but also some baroque buildings and even one of the first works of Gaudí.
The old streets of the Gothic quarter are very charming, so tall and narrow that you will always walk on the shade. These contrast to the spacious squares and commercial streets that organise the area.
The fabrication of the Gothic Quarter
Barcelona’s Gothic Quarter, one of the city’s symbols, is actually more neo-gothic than it seems.
Maybe that’s why it is so popular among tourists. The real original mediaeval buildings that remained were surrounded by new recreated buildings in the 19th c. – a gothic atmosphere fabricated by art history experts.
Not that this is something unique to Barcelona – in Western Europe, in the 17th and 18th centuries, the gothic style was considered old-fashioned and not so elegant. That’s why many mediaeval buildings were demolished or transformed to look baroque, like Llotja de Mar (Guildhall) in Barcelona.
But in the mid-19th c. everything changed. People started loving the Middle Ages – and its gothic style – all over Europe, and especially in France, where Viollet-le-Duc carried out great reconstructions, like that of the Citadel of Carcasonne.
That was also the case in Catalonia, where gothic was praised as the purest Catalan architectural style, with a hint of nationalism. That’s how the old Barcelona should be reinterpreted in gothic style. Finally, the main façade of the Cathedral was finished, after three centuries waiting.
On the other hand, Barcelona was becoming rich. A thriving textile industry developed a new bourgeosie. As they became more and more refined, they needed a city with more amenities and infrastructure, wider streets and a more rational urban plan – but also with a recognisable historical centre they could be proud of.
Thus, Via Laietana was built, connecting the Eixample (the new grid-like “Expansion district”) with the port. To open this new avenue, all buildings that were on its way were demolished. Some were really mediaeval, but not considered valuable. Other buildings were moved to a new location in the upgraded Gothic Quarter.
Now, Via Laietana separates the Gothic quarter from El Born.
What was known as the Cathedral Quarter changed its name to Gothic Quarter. Its street grid was reorganised more rationally and, at the same time, mediaevalised – baroque elements of its buildings were removed, windows and doors with a mediaeval look were added and new neo-gothic buildings were constructed.
This plan was executed after a comprehensive and systematic study of the “typical forms” of Catalan gothic. These scholars identified some unique and emblematic elements like coronelles windows, typical of mediaeval noblemen palaces. There were none left in Barcelona by then, so they made them up again.
To make it more authentic and more rational, many materials from the buildings demolished to make way for Via Laietana were reused in these new mediaeval buildings.
Hence, only some buildings of Barcelona’s gothic quarter are actually gothic, but most of the newer buildings look just as gothic (or even more) to the unwary visitor. Originally, it was a symbol for the thriving Catalan burgeoisie. Now, it’s closer to a mediaeval theme park. But there is also some genuine and very interesting gothic left.
Now we will visit the most emblematic places of Barcelona’s gothic quarter and Born – both the really historical and those fabricated in the past 150 years.
Arriving and moving around Barcelona's Gothic Quarter and El Born
Barcelona’s Ciutat Vella (old city) can be easily visited on foot – it’s 30 min walking from the Citadel to the end of El Raval and 15 min from Plaça Catalunya to Colón (monument to Columbus).
Consider it will take you at least one full day to visit all this area.
The following metro stations are in or around the old city of Barcelona:
- Jaume I (L4), in Plaza del Ángel, very close to Plaza del Rey and the Cathedral.
- Liceu (L3), in the middle of famous La Rambla, and Drassanes (L3) at the end of La Rambla, very close to Colón.
- Urquinaona (L1 and L4), in Via Laietana, by the limits of the old city.
- Universitat (L1 and L2), at the limits of Raval.
There are also several buses that bring you to the old city. Consider that, like the metro, most buses run through the limits of the old city and in its two main streets (Via Laietana and La Rambla) – not through the narrower streets in the area.
Walking tour in the Gothic Quarter and Born
Plaça del Rei
Plaça del Rei (in Spanish: Plaza del Rey, King’s Square) is one of the most iconic places of Barcelona’s Gothic Quarter. Surprisingly, there are usually not many people around, as its location is not so obvious – so don’t miss it!
This square displays what is left of the Royal Palace (Palau Reial Major) of Barcelona – the official residence of the Counts of Barcelona and, later, of the Kings of Aragon in the city.
The palace was larger but only a few buildings have survived, and they have seen quite some changes since the Middle Ages.
Salón del Tinell is the largest building, in the central section, and has a tower on its left. It was the palace’s ceremonial hall. Its windows look gothic, but they were added at the end of the 19th century. The entrance staircase was also rebuilt at that time to give the building more stately looks.
On the right of Tinell you will find the Chapel of Saint Agatha (Capilla de Santa Ágata). It was built in 1302 by James II of Aragon as part of the palace.
This chapel was built on top of the Roman walls of Barcino, as you can see from the opposite side (Plaça de Ramon Berenguer el Gran). This was discovered during the remodelling of the Gothic Quarter.
Palacio de Lloctinent stands on the left of Tinell. Casa Padellàs completes the square – this is a late gothic/renaissance building that has nothing to do with the palace.
It was moved stone by stone to Plaça del Rei in 1931, avoiding demolition as it was on the way of the new Via Laietana. It took the place of some houses of “lower architecture interest” (and not comforming to the desired style) in its new location. Casa Padellàs hosts the City History Museum.
Cathedral of Barcelona (La Seu)
Construction of Barcelona’s Cathedral (officially Catedral de la Santa Creu i Santa Eulàlia, also known as La Seu) started in 1298, on top of the older Romanesque cathedral (and where an Early Christian basilica once stood). The Cathedral has a secluded cloister on its upper right side.
By the mid-15th century, the Cathedral was nearly finished – except for the façade. Even though it was already designed, the Cathedral was left without a façade for 400 years.
In 1882 there was an open competition to design and finish the Cathedral’s façade. A modern and thriving Barcelona was going to host the Universal Exposition in 1888 and its Cathedral couldn’t be in such a state.
The central tower that completes the façade was finally built in 1913.
Entrance to the Cathedral of Barcelona costs 9€. Although it is an interesting monument, we think this is too much for a Cathedral that can’t rival the great gothic Cathedrals in Spain (like Burgos or León). It’s better to save your money to visit Gaudí’s buildings, which are more unique.
Sometimes, you can enter for free from the side gate.
Bishop's Bridge (Pont del Bisbe)
The Bishop’s Bridge (Catalan: Pont del Bisbe, Spanish: Puente del Obispo) is the best example of iconic fake gothic in Barcelona.
This bridge was built in 1928 by Joan Rubió, disciple of Gaudí.
The Bishop’s bridge joins the Canons’ House (Casa dels Canonges) with the seat of the Catalan Government (Palau de la Generalitat) over narrow Carrer del Bisbe, a few metres from the Cathedral’s cloister.
Actually, the Bishop’s bridge was only a small part of Rubió’s larger plan to mediaevalise Barcelona’s old city, which was never carried out.
Look out for the skull with a sword going through it on the bridge’s arch.
No one really knows that Rubió wanted to tell with this symbol, so you can make up your own theory – some say it was some reflection about death, others a symbol of his anger towards the municipal authorities, because they didn’t let him carry out the rest of his grand plan for the city… Who knows?
Plaça Sant Jaume
Under the Bishop’s Bridge, Carrer del Bisbe ends in Plaça Sant Jaume (St. James’ Square). This square is in the geographical centre of old Barcelona, and also of Roman Barcino.
The square takes its name from St. James’ Church, that used to be around here and was moved 200 m to Carrer Ferran to build this square in 1823.
The idea was to open a square so the two main administrative buildings in the city could face each other – on one side, the City Hall (Casa de la Ciutat).
Opposite to it, Palau de la Generalitat is the seat of the Catalan government. This building dates from the 14-15th c. and its Renaissance façade was completed in 1596.
Basílica de la Mercé
Basilica of Our Lady of Mercy (Catalan: Basílica de la Mercé, Spanish: Basílica de la Merced) is one of the most important churches for the locals, as it is home to Our Lady of Mercy (la Mercé), patron virgin of the city.
That’s why both FC Barcelona and RCD Espanyol come here and offer flowers to the Virgin when they achieve any success on the field.
The basilica stands on the limit of the gothic quarter, close to the sea, in a nice square. The present temple was built in the 18th century in Italian baroque style, quite rare in Barcelona.
The visit is free and it’s worth it. Its interior has a rich rococo decoration of marble and gilded coatings.
The wooden statue of Our Lady of Mercy (Mare de Déu de la Mercè) dates from 1361.
El Born
Born is the neighbourhood located between Via Laietana and the Citadel (now Parc de la Ciutadella).
El Born has an interesting heritage, as well as some nice museums, especially Museo Picasso.
Born is less touristic than the gothic quarter, so it is a better area to go for some tapas or to eat in a nice restaurant.
Passeig del Born is the most recognisable street in the quarter, but it’s worth just wandering around, there are plenty of elegant streets in El Born.
Basílica de Santa María del Mar
The Basílica de Santa María del Mar, in El Born, is the finest example of Catalan gothic in Barcelona.
At least in Spain, this basilica is more famous than the actual Cathedral of Barcelona, because of its elegance and authenticity, but also due to a historical novel La Catedral del Mar, by Ildefonso Falcones.
The Basilica of Santa María del Mar was built in just 54 years during the 14th century, and this is why its style is very consistent.
Its interior is not very flashy, but very elegant. Don’t miss the stained glass windows. Some of them, as well as the baroque altar, were burnt in the beginning of the Spanish Civil War.
Entrance to the basilica costs 5€ (and for another 5€ you can climb the tower and terrace). But you can also enter for free after church services – try on Sunday late mornings.
La Rambla
La Rambla is probably the most famous street in Barcelona. It runs for over 1 km between Plaça Catalunya and the old harbour. It divides the old city of Barcelona – on its left lies the gothic quarter, on its right, El Raval.
In the beginning of La Rambla you will find the fountain of Canaletes, celebratation spot of FC Barcelona fans. At the end of the street, the Monument to Columbus.
La Rambla traces its origins to a former stream (riera d’en Malla) that flowed into the sea (Rambla means “dry riverbed”).
This stream was deviated in the 15th century to build the wall of El Raval.
Many churches and monasteries where built thereafter – but most of them disappeared with the confiscation of 1835 (Desamortización de Mendizábal, named after the minister that managed it).
Thus, most of its current architecture dates from the 19th and early 20th centuries.
La Rambla hosts some of the most representative buildings of Barcelona, as well as other picturesque bourgeois houses and its famouse flower shops.
El Liceu, cultural symbol of Barcelona and Catalonia, stands in La Rambla. Opened in 1849, it is the oldest theatre still active in Barcelona and one of the most important opera houses in the world.
Close to Liceu stands the Market of La Boquería, the most famous in Barcelona. It is a typical place to go for tapas, although it is too touristy, which means quite overpriced. Anyway it’s worth taking a look inside.
Don’t miss the Palace of the Vicereine (Palau / Palacio de la Virreina), one of the most interesting baroque buildings of Barcelona.
Its name is derived from the fact that it was built by Manuel Amat, who was viceroy of Peru, when he went back to his hometown Barcelona after making a fortune during his colonial service. Unfortunately, he died short after so it became the palace of his widow (the vicereine).
A few metres fron La Rambla stands Palau Güell, the second great work of Antoni Gaudí. We will take more about it in our post about art nouveau in Barcelona.
El Raval
To complete your visit of the old city of Barcelona you should cross La Rambla and get immersed in the neighbourhood of El Raval. This quarter was born in the 15th c. when the mediaeval walls of Barcelona were enlarged, to allow urban growth.
El Raval has has has historically a sizeable gypsy community – the rumba catalana musical style was born here (made famous in Europe by the Gypsy Kings and others).
Today, El Raval is the most multicultural neighbourhood in Barcelona – more than half of its residents has been born abroad. It is also the place to enjoy a more alternative culture and atmosphere in the city.
Don’t miss the gourmet sandwiches of Mendizábal (Carrer de l’Hospital, esquina con Carrer de la Junta de Comerç), fast and delicious, next to the 15th-century Hospital de la Santa Cruz.
The main street in the quarter is La Rambla del Raval, which also “flows” into the sea.
There you will find the funny statue of a Cat by Fernando Botero, a famous Colombian artist.
La Rambla del Raval changes name to Av. Drassanes, and ends up joing La Rambla by the Monument to Columbus, pointing to the Mediterranean.
Monument to Columbus (Colón)
The Monument to Columbus is not gothic, nor does it try to be mediaeval, but it’s on the way!
The Monument to Columbus was inaugurated just before the 1888 Universal Exposition and It soon became one of the most representative monuments in the city.
The circular base of the column is decorated with allegories of Catalonia, Aragón, Castille and León, along with statues of different characters that collaborated with Columbus in his trips to America.
The 57-metre iron column is embellished with caravels and winged fames who offer crowns to Columbus.
On top of the column stands Christopher Columbus, made of bronze. His finger points to the sea (obviously not to America, as some still say).
From the Monument to Columbus, Passeig de Colom (Columbus boulevard) runs parallel to the sea up to the Citadel.
Along this boulevard stood the old wall of the sea, which was demolished to make way for this monumental avenue before the 1888 Universal Exposition.
With Columbus we finish the visit to the old city of Barcelona. This area has some interesting places in their own right – and others that show us how historical cities are shaped and how the meaning of urban spaces can be changed.
However, what is most interesting and unique in Barcelona – and what has made it such a popular tourist destination – are its art nouveau buildings, and especially, those by Antoni Gaudí. We will show the most important of them in our next post, so stay tuned!
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