If you are interested in travelling to Albania, check out these other posts:
- 10 Albanian dishes you have to taste, so you know what to order during your trip.
- Insider guide to Tirana, with walking tours & the best local recommendations by Anida.
- 2 days in Korçë, the best Christmas destination in Albania, a very interesting city not covered in this route.
- Albanian riviera – best beaches & what else to do.
Albania is one of the least known countries in Europe for foreigners, but this is changing quickly – more and more cruisers are arriving to its coasts and lately it is going viral in Instagram. So visit Albania while it is still so authentic!
But if you want to know Albania for real – its culture, its cuisine, its people, check out this article and our blog! We won’t talk about Albania as a tourist who has been there for one week, but as an Albanian woman and a Spaniard who have decided to share their lives and travels.
From the perspective of a foreigner who had visited other countries in the region (this is Marcos talking now), my first time in Albania I was pretty excited about going to this fantastic place in the Western Balkans I had never been before, even more mysterious than the rest of the region because of its recent past as a kind of European North Korea.
I remember how as I took my connecting flight in Ljubljana, there was a man boarding the plane carrying a book about Stalin in Albanian – that was the thing.
But then, my perspective changed completely. I found a capital city full of life, with thousands of bars with amazing terraces, really good food (in my opinion, the best place to eat in the Balkans) and very hospitable people.
Albania (in Albanian, Shqipëria, that is, “Eagle-land”) is a land of many contrasts, starting from its nature. It is a country where you can see the sea just below you while walking on rugged montains.
Once on the frontier of the Ottoman Empire, it has a noticeable Italian influence and a character of its own – a language that doesn’t look or sound much like any other you’ve heard before while still being Indoeuropean and four religions that get along quite well.
This is the trip we recommend to all our friends who travel to Albania for the first time – adapting it to the duration of their stay. It will let you discover the most important historical heritage in Albania, its wonderful Ioanian coast (known as the Albanian Riviera) and a breath-taking mountain coastal road (yes, that’s right!).
How to arrive in Albania
There is only commercial airport in the country, Tirana Mother Theresa airport (TIA). The airport is located between Tirana, Durrës and Kruja, which are the starting and finishing points of our route.
Another option is flying to Corfú, which is just a few kilometres off Saranda’s coast. So you can follow our trip, just starting from Day 4.
Otherwise, the closest airports in neighbouring countries are Tivat and Podgorica in Montenegro, Prishtina in Kosovo and Ohrid in North Macedonia. There are bus connections to Tirana from all of them.
If there are no direct flights to Tbilisi from your airport, we really recommend booking your tickets with a platform such as kiwi.com, in order to be able to combine flights from different carriers safely. They include an insurances that covers you in case your first flight arrives in the connecting airport with a delay.
You can search your flights to Tirana in the widget below!
Moving around
We strongly recommend that you rent a car because public transport (buses, as there are no passenger trains any more) outside of the Tirana-Durrës area is pretty slow.
Roads are less comfortable than in most of Europe but still decent. Tunnels are virtually non-existent so once you are South of Berat, you will not make more than 60 km/h on average but you will be rewarded with beautiful landscapes.
You can rent a car for 20€ (more in summer) with an international company. You can also get it cheaper with a local one, but the cars will have a considerable mileage, probably above 100.000 km).
Do not trust Google Maps much. We know that people experience some issues because quite often it does not tell apart a good road from a bad one (or an unpaved path). Road signalling is good, so it is better to follow it.
You can use the search form from rentalcars.com we provide you to compare rental car prices of the main international companies in Tirana.
We also advise you to buy a SIM card in the airport or at your first destination. The mobile network is good by European standards, though worse in the mountainous North. Vodafone seems to have the best coverage.
Budget
Travelling in Albania is still relatively cheap, but so much so as previously. The travel budget has increased quite much, due to the incredible surge in tourism, but also a stronger lek and general inflation.
A good meal will cost you around 15 € per person, including drinks, in Tirana, Durrës and the Riviera (30 € in a fancy restaurant) and around 7 € in the towns of the interior.
Entrance tickets to all museums and sites are cheap for European standards: most will cost you around 5 €. Some museums used to cost 300 lek, but we would except this to rise after their extensive renovations.
Public transport is very cheap. A single ticket in Tirana city buses costs 40 lek (0.33 €), and the Tirana – Durrës interurban bus costs 130 lek (1.25 €).
Accommodation prices have risen in the last years, especially in the Riviera in August, as it is a touristic hotspot (lately not only for Albanians). A reasonable estimate is 40-50 € per night for a good double room or apartment in a central location, 70 € or more in the Riviera.
We used to recommend visitors to carry a lot of cash, but now more and more places accept card payments. Not all, though, and we still advise to carry always some lek with you, especially in remote areas or for small purchases. There are a lot of money exchange places where you can turn your money into lek.
The local currency, lek, has got stronger in the past year. From a relatively stable exchange rate around 1 € = 120 lek, in 2023 it is around 1€ = 105 lek.
Travel insurance
Albania is still not part of the European Union, so even you are an EU resident you will need travel health insurance as the EU health card doesn’t cover medical assistance in Albania.
We recommend IATI‘s insurance, because of their coverage and compensation for trip delays or cancellations. There are many different insurance packages to choose from, but usually IATI Classic is good enough.
If you use our link to your IATI insurance you will get an exclusive 5% discount and you will support us to continue writing about our trips.
What to read in the plane
To set the atmosphere before to arrive in Albania, we recommend you to read the country’s most famous novelist, Ismail Kadaré, especially: The General of the Dead Army, The Palace of Dreams and Broken April.
Some myth-busting before we start
Is it safe to travel in Albania?
Certainly! Travelling in Albania is very safe. People are very friendly and hospitable with tourists and you won’t be bothered. The driving style is another thing… No, seriously, it is similar to that in Italy and Greece, but you will be fine
What is the religion of Albania?
Albania is NOT a Muslim country as many people believe. Albania is a strictly secular state with a multireligious population. The four main religions in Albania, starting with the most followed are: Islam, Orthodox Christianity, Catholicism, and Bektashism.
Even though most Albanians don’t care much about religion, being atheists or non-practicioners (and sometimes rarely syncretic for a European culture), many self-identify into one of the four traditional religious groups, because of family origin or culture, but without really caring or understanding much about its teachings.
Therefore, when you travel around Albania, you will see very few women in Islamic attire, it is extremely rare for a bar or restaurant not to sell alcohol (which is common in Bosnia) and you will find pork meat and charcuterie nearly everywhere.
Albanians like repeating poet Vashko Pasa’s line “the religion of Albania is Albanianism” – this explains a lot their stance on religion. Unlike all other countries in the Balkans, Albanian identity is defined by their unique language and culture.
After all, if religion came to be part of such identity (as it has happened in Croatia, Bosnia, Serbia, Greece – or Kosovo), it would fall apart. When Pope Francis visited Tirana, there were more curious Albanians (even some Muslims) than fervent Catholics greeting him.
Think that Skënderbeu (or Skanderbeg), the national hero of Albania is a Christian who fought against the Muslim Ottomans. His father changed from Catholic to Orthodox depending on his allies.
Wait... what is bektashism?
Maybe it’s the first time you hear of one of the four religions of Albania. Bektashism is a sufi Muslim sect that incorporates principles of European humanism, whose global centre is in Albania.
They are open to people from other religions, it is a lot more liberal than other forms of Islam: women attend the temple together with men and without covering their hair and it does not contain most of the typical Islamic prohibitions.
They also like ironical jokes about religious dogmas. Bektashi temples are called “teqe” in Albanian (usually “tekke” in English) and are usually built to honour a dervish. Thus, you must leave the temple walking backwards so as not to give him your back.
7-day road trip in Albania
Day 1: Tirana
If you are planning to visit Tirana, check out our Insider guide of Tirana, a very comprehensive guide of what to do, and local recommedations for eating and going out in Tirana, a city that Anida knows very well.
Let’s be honest, Tirana is not a monumental and beautiful capital city, but it does have a lot to offer. So don’t leave yet for the beautiful scenery and picturesque towns and take at least one day here, or more if you are into hanging out in pubs, fancy restaurants and nightlife.
You will not regret it as it is one of the liveliest cities in Europe. It is also a city that is changing very quickly – really, if you visited Tirana 4 years ago and you go again now, you will find many new buildings and spaces.
Tirana was little more than a village until it was proclaimed as the capital of the nascent Albanian state in 1920. This is why most of its architecture is quite recent – first, shaped by the Italian architects commissioned by King Zog who drafted ample boulevards and elegant administrative buildings, and then by the communist regime.
There is also plenty of new investment and construction since the transition to democracy.
Skënderbeu Square is the central square in the city, where all main streets lead. It has been recently renovated and pedestrianised, paved with stones from all regions of Albania. It hosts some of the main institutions and symbols of the country: the Opera, the Bank of Albania, some Ministerial buildings, a national flag and a statue of Skënderbeu.
The mosaic on the National History Museum is especially interesting – it depicts how Albanians see the historical evolution of their nation (or at least how Hoxha’s government did) from the Illyrians to the partisans.
Unfortunately, the mosaic is being changed during the full renovation of the National History Museum (2022-2023) – it seems the government wants to update the history of Albania, let’s see!
On a corner of the square, take a look on Et’hem Bej Mosque, built in the 18th century. It is worth entering to see its beautiful frescoes; and next to it, the clock tower, symbol of the city. On the next pedestrian square you can enter a real bunker… now turned into a museum of Hoxha’s prisons – Bunk’Art 2.
As you take the boulevard and cross the Lana River, you will find the Pyramid of Tirana – it was designed by Enver Hoxha’s daughter Pranvera as a museum dedicated to him.
It was one of the most iconic buildings of Albanian 1980s architecture – after years of neglect, its demolition was discussed. Finally, it was decided to renovate it to use it as a cultural centre. Works started in 2021, and little remains of the original structure more than a hint of its shape.
As of summer 2023, the works are still ongoing, but you can already see the new Pyramid and even climb to the top.
At least the Palace of Congresses (Pallati i Kongreseve), another iconic building from the 1980s that sits a couple of blocks down the boulevard, keeps its original design.
Take a right down Rruga Abdyl Frashëri, and you will be entering Blloku – Tirana’s Forbidden City. During the communist period, this area of the city was only open to the government and other important officials. Now it is bustling with bars, cafés and restaurants serving all kinds of cuisine.
We recommend you visit the House of Leaves – Museum of Secret Surveillance. It was opened a couple of years ago in the building where the infamous secret police in Hoxha’s dictatorship (Sigurimi) spied the Albanian and foreign population.
If you have some time, why not take the cable car up Dajti mountain? It has beautiful nature dotted with bunkers in the city! You can hike up to the top of the mountain or just eat and relax with a view in one of its restaurants.
But get back to town for a fine dinner – traditional or modern, Albanian, Italian or maybe sushi (actually during the rest of your trip you will probably eat only traditional Albanian so why not something different?). Then, enjoy some drinks and hit some clubs or live music bars in Blloku.
Day 2:Berat
Berat is a 2 hours drive from Tirana. The road is quite decent (it starts as a motorway down to Kavaja and then turns into a 2+2 road with the odd roundabout or traffic lights).
Perched magnificently on both banks of river Osum, Berat is known as the City of Windows over Windows (“një mbi një dritare“). Lately, there it’s incorrectly dubbed the “city of a thousand windows”, because it sounds better in English or maybe some guides mispronounce the Albanian original (“një mbi një” sounds similar to 1001).
It hosts an incredibly well preserved typical Ottoman architecture. Both buildings and nature combine to create one of the most picturesque and famous sights in Albania, majestic without the need for any large monumental buildings.
These are the reasons why Berat is a UNESCO World Heritage site along with Gjirokastër.
The old city consists of three neighbourhoods: Mangalem, Gorica and the castle (Kalaja).
Take your time walking around the cobbled streets of Mangalem, where you will feel like being back in Ottoman Albania, although more recent regimes have also left their mark in the pavement (see picture right).
Along the main street of the Old Town (Rruga Antipatrea) sits the Bachelor’s Mosque and just walking a bit uphill, a beautiful teqe (bektashian temple), which is something you cannot visit in many other countries.
If you continue along the street you will arrive first to Berat’s main Mosque and to the newly built Orthodox Cathedral (on the site of the original one that was destroyed).
Then cross the bridge over the Osum to Gorica. This neighbourhood is not as charming but the view of Mangalem perched on the rock is impressive.
Do not leave without visiting the castle. When we listed it as a neighbourhood, we really meant it, it is a real walled town, where people still live. It has a unique flair, a mosque, three churches… and a beautiful view.
There are plenty of places to eat in the old city, but we like driving a bit uphill and going to Castle Park. It is also a good option to stay overnight in Berat if you prefer to do so. It is like being in the middle of nature, its terrace is quite bucolic and the halls are spacey and traditional.
They serve many traditional Albanian dishes, including turkey with pershesh (which is not so common), cooked as they should be.
You have time to eat here and drive to stay in Gjirokastër for the night. It is a 2h30 drive. The road becomes slower (mostly 1+1) but also more scenic, a prelude to what you will see in the coming days.
Day 3: Gjirokastër
Have a good breakfast and get ready to explore the steep cobbled streets of Gjirokastër. The birthplace of Ismail Kadaré is very similar in style to Berat, albeit less scenic and more monumental. It was a more important city as witnessed by its Ottoman-style fortified mansions.
You can visit two of them: Skenduli and Zekate, both dating from the beginning of the 19th century. You should definitely visit at least one of them.
The interiors are definitely worth it, with wooden roofs and frescoed chimneys – but probably the best part is that a member of the family will show you around the house in a small group (or maybe only your party), making you feel like a real host to a wealthy local family. This is something very unique these days.
Then just wander around the cobbled streets of the city’s Old Bazaar (picture above), a charming mixture of Europe and Turkey full of shops and cafés. Do not miss the Bazaar Mosque – built in the early 18th century, it is the only one in old Gjirokastër that was spared after Hoxha declared Albania officially an atheist state in 1967 and went on a frenzy of demolishing or transforming religious buildings.
Finally, go to the castle. This is a sturdy fortress, not a fortified town like Berat castle. It hosts a military museum, but what makes it really worth it is the fantastic view.
Now it’s the time for some local cuisine before driving to Saranda. We like going to Kujtimi, a family tavern with local traditional food at its best and very good prices. There, you should try qifqi, rice balls that are a traditional recipe from Gjirokastër.
In the old town of Gjirokastër, there are many traditional hotels that will make you feel like in an Ottoman manor. We always stay in Hotel Gjirokastra, but there are other great ones, like Hotel Argjiro, Hotel Kalemi 2 or Hotel Kodra. Staying in one of these will make your stay in Gjirokastër even more special.
Day 4: Saranda-Butrint
Beach lovers, this is the moment you were waiting for. Enjoy the deep blue waters of the Ionian Sea in Ksamil.
But even if it’s not summer or you are just more into a cultural holiday you should still drive down here. A few kilometres away from Saranda lies Butrint (Buthrotum), the best preserved large archaeological site in Albania. Originally founded as the Greek colony of Buthros, the history of the site stretches past the fall of Rome.
According to the local legend, Achilles was dipped in its lake (so this would be Styx, the river between the World and the Underworld). Anyway, the highlights of the site include its well preserved theatre, originally Greek but rebuilt by the Romans during the 2nd century AD and the ruins of a Byzantine palace and an Early Christian basilica.
The town of Saranda and the islands of Ksamil are dominated by the ruins of the Lëkurësi Castle (Kalaja e Lëkurësit). It was built by Suleiman the Magnificient in 1537 to secure the area in order to support the siege of Corfu the Ottoman army and navy conducted that summer.
Before, you leave stop at Syri i Kaltër (The Blue Eye).
It is a water spring a few kilometres on the way to Himara, in which there is a hole in the karst bed deeper than 50 metres (the actual figure is unknown) out of which the water from the river bubbles, forming unexpected shapes.
If you have more time to continue exploring the South of Albania, you can go East to visit Korçë, one of the main cultural centres of Albania (especially popular in winter) and then go to Pogradec and explore Ohrid Lake, crossing to North Macedonia.
Day 5: Himarë - Llogara - Vlorë
Himarë
Now we start heading back towards Tirana, driving through beautiful winding roads overlooking the coast. You can stay in Himara or Dhermi (just 50 km North of Saranda).
This is the Albanian Riviera – a clean turquoise sea meeting the mountains in a myriad of coves, some of which are not accessible by road (so you need to hike or rent a boat to reach them).
This is the most popular tourist destination in the country for Albanians, and lately also for foreigners.
You should know that most beaches here are occupied by bars that rent hammocks and umbrellas. You won’t go with your towel and pick a place unless you go to the more remote beaches.
Like Saranda, this area is home to the Albanian Greek minority and also many Albanians here have lived in Greece. This is why you will find Greek style grill houses and you will hear a lot of Greek spoken. After all, Balkan country without minorities from neighbouring countries is not a Balkan country.
In summer, the nightlife in the Riviera is vibrant. But from September to May it dies out. Anyway, if you are not travelling in summer, the scenery is worth every kilometre, and you can stay in the Llogara National Park, or drive all the way to the next stage.
On the other hand, if you decide to stay for a couple of days relaxing in these beaches, you can take a boat tour to enjoy a panoramic view of the coast and a bath in some less accesible beaches.
Llogara
Once you’ve had enough of these lovely beaches, you will continue driving North over the Llogara Pass. This is arguably the most beautiful road in Albania, so don’t drive fast and enjoy. At the top, there is a comfortable viewpoint where you can stop the car and enjoy a breathtaking view of the sea kissing the mountains.
Vlorë is the second port of Albania and another popular summer destination. Its bay divides the Adriatic to the North and the Ionian Sea to the South. You might spend a night here and charge your batteries for the next day.
Day 6: Apollonia - Ardenicë - Durrës
To be honest, this is probably too much for one day, but we cannot leave out any of these places.
Apollonia
The archaeological site of Apollonia traces its history back to the Illyrian tribes, the most famous of the “original people” of Albania who populated this area when a Greek colony was founded.
It flourished during the next centuries as an important centre in the Via Egnatia and even developed a reputed school of philosophy during Roman times – emperor Augustus himself studied here!
A large part of the site has still not been excavated, but the imposing Bouleuterion (2nd century AD) is well worth a visit. The city was abandoned after a series of earthquakes (actually Albania is a moderately seismic area). The site also includes a 14th century monastery turned into the site museum.
Ardenicë Monastery
Ardenicë Monastery is an Eastern Orthodox Monastery established in the late 13th century. It sits atop a hill dominating the landscape. The interior hosts one of the finest Orthodox religious frescoes in the Balkans, painted by Nikolaos Terpos in the 1731. Pictures of the interior are usually not allowed, but we managed to take a few.
Durrës
Durrës is the main port of Albania and its oldest city.
The Roman Dyrrachium was probably the most strategically important port in the Eastern Mediterranean – it was the starting point of the Via Egnatia, that lead to Byzantium through Thessaloniki. Also, the journey towards the East from Italy usually took place between the ports of Brindisium (Brindisi) and Dyrrachium.
Later, the city formed part of the Republic of Venice and was one of the last strongholds against Ottoman rule in Albania. After conquering Durrës, Ottomans neglected it, so it lost its splendour. Still, nowadays it continues looking towards Italy like in the good old days.
The modern visitor will admire its amphitheatre, one of the largest in the Balkan Peninsula. Even if heritage in Albania was neglected during a large part of the 20th century, it is in a good shape and hosts theatre performances in summer. Something particularly interesting is the Early Christian chapel built inside its main gallery.
Just outside the amphitheatre, there is a very well preserved section of the city’s Byzantine wall. To complete a visit of Dyrrachium, peek at the remnants of the Byzantine forum. If you need some rest, why not take a coffee atop the Venetian Tower? Then, you can have a walk and dinner by the sea.
It is pity that such an important city in Antiquity has not been protected in the last decades. Fortunately, this is changing.
Up to 2015, there was a guy living with some hens in the amphiteatre arena. Now he has been relocated and there are more informative signs, not only of the amphitheatre but also of other Roman ruins in the city.
In the future, Durrës may promote more its classical heritage and rely less on the mass beach tourism that has already spoiled its coast.
Day 7: Kruja
Even if you are exhausted by now, Kruja is so picturesque and just a 30-40 minute ride from Tirana or Durrës that you will not regret spending half a day there – then going back to Tirana to enjoy its atmosphere one night more.
Built atop a hill, the town is imposing when you approach it from below. But it’s not only that – Kruja’s old bazaar is the finest of its kind in Albania. It is really like travelling to the Ottoman era – and you can also buy fine artisanal pottery, carpets, wooden tools or antiques.
You can enjoy a great panoramic view of the old city and its castle during lunch at Hotel Panorama, where they serve great Albanian staples and delicious roasted goat.
The castle of Kruja lies at the end of the bazaar. It is a place of great historical significance and national pride in Albania, as it was the centre of Skënderbeu’s struggle against the Ottomans in the 15th century.
As many other children from the Balkans, young Gjergj Kastrioti (his real name) was sent as a hostage to the Ottoman court at Edirne in 1423, to be educated here as a high official of the empire. He served the Ottoman sultan until 1443, when he deserted in the aftermath of the battle of Niš along with other fellow countrymen.
Then, he led the group to Kruja where here organised the largest resistance against the Ottomans in the Balkans after they strengthened their foothold in 1389. He was centred in this castle but his revolt united people from all central Albania and attracted interest across Europe.
He was a hero for Christian Europe against the Ottomans (the Pope gave him the title of Champion of Christ), and especially for Christians in the Balkans as a leader (that is Greeks and Slavs, the 20th century enemies of Albanians).
The powerful Ottoman army besieged this castle three times – unsuccessfully. After Skenderbëu died of malaria (Europe was ridden with it at the time) in 1468, the castle upheld for 10 years more, until it was finally taken over by the Ottomans in the fourth and last siege.
Kruja castle is therefore an important national symbol for Albania. The building we see now has been heavily renovated, but it is still imposing and the view makes us understand why it was such a good defending position.
The complex includes a teqe and an Ethnographic Museum that depicts life in a typical 19th century Albanian home.
Before you leave, you might want to visit a not so famous sight near Kruja, the Teqe of Sari Salltik. The original temple was destroyed around 1967 and it was rebuilt in the 1990s. It is built inside a cave on top of a hill that dominates the landscape. The view is really breathtaking, and the temple is an interesting rarity.
If you are interested in travelling to Albania, check out these other posts:
- 10 Albanian dishes you have to taste, so you know what to order during your trip.
- 2 days in Korçë, the best Christmas destination in Albania, a very interesting city not covered in this route
