Montauban is a beautiful town just 55 km North-West from Toulouse, on the way to Bordeaux. As well as neighbouring Toulouse it is known as a “pink city” due to the widespread use of pinkish bricks in its architecture since the Middle Ages.
Montauban is on river Tarn, which flows beautifully here. The old town lies on the right bank, while the picturesque neighbourhood of Villebourbon sits on the left.
Montauban is the capital of the departément of Tarn-et-Garonne (82), the westernmost of the Occitanie region. In 2015 it was classified Ville d’art et d’histoire (city of art and history).
In the 16th c. Montauban became on the main protestant centres in France and refused to accept the authority of Louis XIII, functioning as a small independent republic for some years.
Then, it became the headquarters of the Huguenot rebellion of 1621 and resisted a siege of the French army. When the Huguenots were defeated in 1629, Cardinal Richelieu subsequently destroyed the city’s fortifications.
You can visit Montauban’s essentials in a couple of hours. After visiting the city, we recommend you to drive to Moissac, just 30 min away: a mediaeval town whose abbey has one of the oldest and most beautiful Romanesque cloisters in Europe.
How to arrive in Montauban
Montauban is located 55 km NW of Toulouse, and 215 km from Bordeaux.
If you are travelling by car, you can reach Montauban easily with the A62 motorway (Toulouse-Bordeaux). You can park easily at no cost on the left bank of river Tarn, just across the old town. Don’t try to park in the old town, which is mostly pedestrian, although there are paid car parks there.
You can also reach Montauban by train. It takes around 30 min from Toulouse. You can check schedules and book tickets following this link.
Montauban is therefore a comfortable and very recommendable place to stop if you are on a road trip in the South of France.
Things to do in Montauban
#1 Villebourbon quarter
Whether you arrive in Montauban by car or train, you will start your visit in the left bank of river Tarn, in the neighbourhood of Villebourbon. Villebourbon traces its origins to the Middle Ages, but it thrived thanks to its textile industry in the Industrial Revolution.
This area is dominated by the neoclassical brick church of Saint-Orens. The current building was finished in 1891.
But the most beautiful thing of of Villebourbon is certainly its riverfront, as you will see when you cross the Pont Vieux.
#2 Pont Vieux and river Tarn
Pont Vieux is a monumental 200-metre long bridge over river Tarn built in the 14th century. It was an impressive work at the time!
The bridge takes you to the old town, but you will not want to walk so fast, because the view of river Tarn from there is beautiful! The river is pretty wide here, and there is an island just North of the bridge.
If you are really into art, you can visit Ingres Museum, just after the bridge – it is dedicated to the work of Ingres, the 19th-century painter famous for his portraits and drawing skills, who was born in Montauban.
#3 Saint-Jacques' Church
Saint-Jacques is, along with Pont Vieux, the only mediaeval monument still existing in Montauban. The church was built using the typical local pink bricks in Southern French Gothic style.
Scars of the 1621 siege during the Huguenot revolution can still be seen on its façade. The tiles on the main entrance were added later, giving the church a distinctive look. The bell tower looks just like those in Toulouse.
The interior of the church is decorated with geometrical mediaeval frescoes, typical of this area. It is quite dark and not so well-kept but worth having a look.
#4 Place Nationale
Place Nationale has been the heart of Montauban since its origins. The main streets of the old town arrive in this porticoed brick square, somewhat reminiscent of a Spanish plaza mayor.
The square suffered 2 important fires in the 17th century. It was soon rebuilt and, after restorations that improved the state of the construction, this is what we can admire today.
It seems that originally, the iconic pink bricks were actually painted in different colours. Another well-kept secret of the square are the ornate inner courtyards of its houses.
We found this a great spot to eat something and have a coffee. Montauban is not so touristic, so prices are more or less like anywhere else in the city centre.
#5 Cathedral of Notre-Dame-de-l'Assomption
The Baroque Cathedral of Montauban stands on the south-eastern corner of the old town. This building has a deep historical significance.
Montauban was one of the main centres of protestant (Huguenot) rebellion in France. Vanquishing the protestants was not enough for Louis XIV, who decided assert his rule building a monumental Catholic cathedral made of white stone in this brick city, demolishing some buildings to make space for it.
The Cathedral follows a classical Baroque style and was consecrated in 1739. During our time in Montauban, there were huge works in the square so we couldn’t take a good picture. The Cathedral hosts one of the best paintings of Ingres: Le voeu de Louis XIII.
#6 Ancien Collège
The Ancient College is a massive but austere brick building from the 18th century where the Jesuits established a college.
Nowadays, it hosts the tourist office of Montauban, some administrative offices and the town museum.
#7 Wander around the streets of central Montauban
Even if we had a grey and rainy day, just wandering in the streets of the old town of Montauban was very pleasant. It is quite small, so you can explore it easily and you will find beautiful corners and cosy shops like these ones.
Montauban and river Tarn provide a very pleasant trip from Toulouse or when exploring the South of France. Montauban was the town the prime minister of the Spanish Republic Manuel Azaña chose to live in exile after the Spanish Civil War. He died soon after and rests in the town’s municipal graveyard.
But, seriously, once you are in Montauban don’t miss the impressive cloister of Moissac Abbey, just 30 km away. Check out our blog post about this mediaeval gem!
